Over the Snake Pass

A Gjarpër is a snake in Albanian, which is why the Qafa Gjarpërit translates to "Snake Pass" in English. Rising 1,525 meters above sea level, the pass connects the Devoll River Valley with the more easterly Tomorrica Valley. Why the name Snake Pass? Perhaps due to the serpentine gravel track that winds over it. Who knows... What we do know for sure is the difficulty level of this track—and it’s high. Rough stones, cross and longitudinal ruts are standard fare in Albania. Steps and narrow sections are common too. But when mud holes and slanted drives along steep cliffs are added to the mix, things quickly turn into an adventure. That’s why anything larger than a regular off-road vehicle shouldn’t attempt the Gjarpërit.
Approach the track from the north via Gramsh on the SH 71. Just before Moglicë, take a right turn, and the off-road journey begins. The first mountain villages you’ll encounter are Bardhas and Gurkug, followed by the pass itself coming into view. Those who endure to this point are rewarded with a unique atmosphere: absolute silence, total solitude, the sound of the wind, and stunning views of the Tomorr Massif. It’s a true oasis of peace. Your pulse slows, your breathing steadies—a much-needed respite because the descent ramps up the excitement. The full array of off-road challenges comes into play, crowned by slippery, narrow passages along steep cliffs.
About five kilometers before reaching Gjerbës, the track enters a forest and becomes noticeably tamer. Gjerbës, a quaint village, is perfect for a well-deserved break.